Plumbing

Hot water can scald in seconds. Be sure the thermostat(s) on your hot water tank(s) are set to a maximum of 125 degrees Fahrenheit.

Some plumbing parts are concealed and cannot be inspected.

Note that some leaks are only revealed under specific circumstances. You may, for instance, have to weigh over 175 pounds and stand in the shower for ten minutes before the leak condition occurs. Often there are clues to previous leakage (stains on ceilings and so on) but in the absence of this evidence, future leaks are almost impossible to predict.

Sump pump discharge pipes are often underground. In Winter it is generally impossible to determine their efficiency. Pipes occasionally freeze and a working pump is not necessarily an indicator of a clear discharge.

Plumbing

Septic systems do not form part of this inspection. Any comments in the report (good or bad) are not intended to be an indicator of any septic system’s viability, life span or even current condition. We recommend that all septic and other non-municipal drainage systems are professionally inspected before you proceed with your transaction.

The drawing shows approximate and most common clearances required and are intended only as a guide. Consult your septic engineer before proceeding.

A house needs a water supply, a waste system and venting to allow air back into the pipes as the waste flows out.

Supply

Water is supplied to the building by the Municipality or via a private well, lake or collection system.

Municipal water is generally trouble free, chemically treated and at a reasonable pressure but you have to pay for it. Generally speaking, you can’t increase the pressure. If the pressure appears to be low, check that the main valve’s fully open and that shower heads or faucet filters aren’t clogged.

There is also no guarantee with Municipal water that you’ll get what you pay for or expect. Residents in Walkerton found that out when inadequate treatment caused several deaths and much sickness.

Private wells, collection systems or supplies from lakes are free but rely on electric pumps, pressure systems or other mechanical supply methods to get the water to the faucets. The question of whether the water is clean, drinkable and free from bacteria and coliform (we call it “potable”) is firmly in your court. We recommend that you always take your own sample for testing before proceeding. You can use it to compare with results from other sources – owners, Realtors, previous tests and so on.

Regular testing (once you get occupation) of private water supplies is also highly recommended.

Unlike Municipal water supplies, the water pressure can be increased typically to a maximum of about 60 pounds per square inch.

The adequacy or continuity of any private water supply does not form any part of this report. Your inspector may have information about local conditions.

Waste

Waste systems are also public (sewers) or private (septic systems and holding tanks). You pay for Municipal waste disposal (usually in your taxes).

Pipes that join your home to the sewers will almost always be your responsibility from the house to the lot line. Beyond that, the Municipality may pick up the bill if there’s a blockage or other problem.

You also pay for waste disposal though your septic system (because you have to have it pumped out every few years), or you have to pay to have a holding tank emptied every month or so.

The frequency with which you should have a septic tank emptied is a matter for a large scale discussion in another forum. The views are as diverse as the styles of system available. Most knowledgeable commentators involved in the field, will suggest that once every two or three years is adequate. Much depends on use though – so if you have a family that likes to party and you have fifty guests every weekend – expect to pump it much more often.

We strongly recommend that all private waste systems are professionally examined before you proceed with your transaction.

Remember that both supply and waste lines are concerned (buried) service connections. The inspector does not inspect or evaluate buried and or concealed supply, drain, waste lines and systems.

Vents

The waste side of all plumbing fixtures (sinks, basins, showers and so on) must be properly vented. The vent is an additional pipe that allows air back into the system as water/waste is discharged. Without adequate venting, the traps can be siphoned clean of water, resulting in sewer smells and gasses entering the building.

Auto vents, air admittance valves or cheater vents are small lengths of pipe with a valve and a low tension spring inside. They replace the need for a normal vent pipe, which may be difficult to configure, especially in kitchen island units or basement bar sinks. Auto vents are not permitted in many jurisdictions.

Pumps

Water pumps for private water systems are either jet pumps or submersible. The test is easy – if you can see the pump beside the pressure tank – it’s a jet pump.

The old days of having to prime pumps after a power out, by pouring water into a hole in the top, have largely gone. New style pumps are self priming and only require connection to a power source.

Pressure tanks

These provide the pressure at the outlets (faucets, showerheads and so on).

Most can be adjusted to provide water pressure at the outlet up to 60 pounds per square inch. At a shower, this will be significant and may remove skin! Unless you have an understanding of the process and a compressor – it’s a job for a plumber.

A pump that continually cycles – that is – as soon as you turn on a faucet or flush – it starts or where the shower gives you the water in short spurts, is an indicator that the pressure tank has become waterlogged. The air that should be in the pressure tank has leaked out and the tank must now be emptied and re-pressurized.

Water heater

Many water heaters are rental units – often it depends on your location. If you have a rental unit, the supplier takes responsibility for any repairs or replacement that may be required.

Generally, if you intend to occupy the home for five years or more – it’s more cost effective to buy one.

Many hot water heaters have the temperature set too high. Hot water at 140 degrees Fahrenheit (a common setting) will scald a child in seconds. Most pediatric commentators recommend a maximum temperature of 125 degrees Fahrenheit. It’s a common misconception that you need the water really hot for a dishwasher to be efficient. All modern dishwashers have an internal heater that will bring the incoming water temperature up to the required level.

Whirlpool tubs

Whirlpool tubs either have series of air jets all over the base or water jets at the sides and ends that circulate the water in the tub. Most of the jets are self draining although not completely so and therein lies the problem. Some water gets left behind and it grows bacteria and disgustingness! Then the next time you use the tub – it all comes out to join you!

The solution is to clean the tub and pipes. You can get special cleaners or just use a weak solution of bleach. Fill the tub and run it for a few minutes – drain it and you ready to go again in a clean tub.
A weak solution, used about once a month, won’t hurt septic systems either.

The power that feeds the spa or whirlpool tub has to go through some type of ground fault protection. Access to the motor and controls is also important.

Sump pumps

Sump pumps are used mainly in rural housing, although many municipalities now require them.
They pump water collected by the footing level perimeter drains – out to a ditch, French drain or other soak-away. There are two basic styles of pump – column or submersible. Column pumps are susceptible to falling over and jam easily. Submersible pumps are better and are generally more powerful.

The flexible sump pump hoses supplied with many pumps are useless and should be replaced with ABS rigid pipes. Ensure that in cold climates – any pipes that extend outside are a minimum three inch diameter and have a continuous slope to the discharge point.

Discharge points must be kept clear. Many are not visible during the inspection and a working pump does not necessarily indicate a clear discharge.

Be sure your house insurance covers sump pump failure both as a result of a mechanical defect and a power failure. Most policies don’t include it as a matter of course – you have to ask for it.

Perimeter drains (a.k.a. “weeping tiles”)

These are the continuous, perforated pipes at the footing level, that surround most country homes and some in the city, which collect water from ground sources, window wells and some downspouts. The pipe either delivers the water to the sump, where a pump delivers it to a drainage area (a ditch for instance) or by gravity to a ditch or lower drainage area.

In city homes – the pipe delivers the water by gravity to a storm sewer.

Blocked perimeter drains can be a major factor in leaking basements. The white efflorescence at the bottom of foundation walls in basements and crawl spaces is often an indicator of this problem. In some cases it may be possible to clean out the pipes, however if replacement is required excavation can be costly.

Many older homes have terra cotta perimeter drains. Most of these have collapsed, at least in part and will need repair or replacement. A home inspection will not determine the condition of the pipes although interior dampness and efflorescence at the base of foundation walls may be an indicator of a problem.

Bathroom fans

We recommend exhaust fans for all bathrooms. Discharge pipes must be insulated in attics and must discharge outside the building. Do not allow discharges into garages either. We further recommend clockwork timers. These allow you to turn on the fan for (say) 30 minutes even though you’re leaving for work. Simple switches mean that you either don’t turn the fan on at all or only for a short period, in which case the condensation will still be in the room. Alternatively, you leave the fan on, in which case it will gradually empty all the heated (or air conditioned) air from the building while you’re out.

Some new fans are available with a humidistat. These run only when the humidity is above a pre-determined level.

Lead pipes

Lead pipes are installed in many Municipal water systems, so although there may be no sign of lead piping in your home, it may be supplied through lead pipes under the street.

Even small amounts of lead can seriously damage your health and in particular the development of fetuses and small children. If you are or intend to become pregnant or have any other health concerns, you must have the water tested for contamination and contact your health professional for advice, before proceeding with your purchase.

The matter of lead piping in the street is beyond the scope of the home inspection.

Bathroom Water Issues

Frequent periodic maintenance of caulking and grouting of tiles and tub surrounds or other materials on the wall of tiles and tub surrounds or other materials on the wall surrounding tubs and showers is mandatory. If the words caulk or grout are noted in your report – consider this an immediate issue. It is vitally important to seal these vulnerable areas against water infiltration.